Waves and Beaches: The Dynamics of the Ocean Surface |
Contents
Ideal Waves | 23 |
Wind Waves | 40 |
Waves in Shallow Water | 74 |
Copyright | |
11 other sections not shown
Other editions - View all
Common terms and phrases
average basin beach face berm boat bottom breakers breakwater buoy California Cape Horn capillary waves caused changes cliff coast coastal currents deep water depth Dukw dunes effect engineer erosion feet high feet long flow force harbor Humboldt Bay hundred feet internal waves island jetties knots land large waves littoral drift low tide measured meters miles moon motion moving observed ocean offshore orbit Pacific period PLATE pressure pump record refraction rip current ripple tank ripples rock rogue wave sea level sea surface seaward seiching shallow water ship shore shoreline side slope small waves speed steep storm waves structure surfboard surfer swell tank tidal tide gauge tion transport trough tsunami turbine underwater usually velocity vertical Walter Munk water level water particles water surface wave action wave channel wave crests wave energy wave form wave front wave height wave length wave of translation wind