A Persian Odyssey: Iran Revisited
Every good traveler plans his or her itinerary carefully to use time well and benefit as much as possible from the trip. I did not have an agenda, however. I wanted to travel Middle Eastern style, that is, with no prior planning. It would have been a nuisance to stick to a set timetable in a country that was, except for the language, entirely alien to me. I had decided to spend five weeks in Iran and had certain ideas as to what and whom I wanted to see, but my choices had to be a la carte - one bite at a time. I wanted to feel the pulse of the country by meeting and talking to as many people as possible. I knew that as a man traveling alone in a Moslem country I faced certain limitations. My quest had to be limited to interacting with men, with little exposure to women and their concerns.
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Friday May 3 Tehran 119
Saturday May 4 Tehran 2030
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Afghans Ahura Mazda American Amir ancient Arabic Armenian arrived asked Assyrian Azarbaijan bazaar bearded Bijan Birjand British building built called capital centuries chadors Christian church clerics courtyard dome door dressed driver Emam entered Esfehan European faith Ferdowsi fire temple foreign French front hejab Hoseyn Iran Iranian Iraq Islamic Kashan kebab Kerman Kermanshah Khan Khomeini knew Kordish Kords land language later leave living looked Mashhad Mohammad mollahs Mongols Moslem mosque mountain never non-Moslems palace Persepolis Persian Persian language prayer province Qajar Qashqai Qor'an religious restaurant Reza Shah rugs ruins Safavid Sanandaj Sasanian seated Shah Abbas shah's Shahnameh Shi'a Shiraz shrine sitting soon started street surrounded Tabriz talking Tehran told town traditional Turkey Turkic Turkish Urmieh village walked walls wanted wearing women Yazd young Zoroastrian