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1990 collection American artistic Arts du Costume avant-garde Betsey Johnson Bonnie Cashin Callot career Chanel chic circa Claire McCardell Coco color courtesy of Special couture house couturiere created creative design clothes Diana Vreeland Dior Donna Karan dress dressmaker elegant fabric famous fash fashion designers fashion editor fashion industry Fashion Institute female designers feminine Fogarty French girl Gres Harper's Bazaar Hawes husband Ibid insisted inspired Institute of Technology jacket Jean Muir Jeanne Jeanne Lanvin jersey journalist Katharine Hamnett Lanvin London look Louise Dahl-Wolfe Madeleine magazine male designers Mandelli McCardell's milliner mother otherwise attributed Paquin Paris Patricia Clyne Photograph by Roxanne Photograph courtesy Poiret Punk Quoted ready-to-wear recalled Rei Kawakubo role says Schiaparelli sexy skirt Sonia Rykiel Special Collections sportswear style suits sweater Sybilla Technology Library Tina Leser trousers Valentina Vionnet Vittadini Vivienne Westwood wanted woman women designers Women's Wear Daily York young Zandra Rhodes