Neither East Nor West: One Woman's Journey Through the Islamic Republic of IranFusing travelogue, historical inquiry, and interviews with Iranians from all walks of life, Neither East Nor West is a landmark contribution to travel writing and to cultural studies, as well as a timely illumination of a nation deeply misunderstood by most Westerners. In describing life in Iran today, Christiane Bird, an American who spent part of her childhood there, breaks the silence that has surrounded Iran's culture -- unlike its politics -- for nearly twenty years. Traveling alone and largely by bus, Bird journeys from the modern, bustling capital of Tehran to the medieval holy city of Qom, from the sacred pilgrimage site of Mashhad -- visited by more than twelve million Shi'ites annually -- to the isolated valley of Alamut, once home to the legendary cult of the Assassins. She visits mosques, public baths, Khomeini's former home, and a Caspian Sea resort, and attends prayer meetings and a horse racing meet. Along the way, she talks to muleteers and ayatollahs, Kurds and Turkomans, Westernized and traditional Iranians -- many of whom invite her home for a cup of tea. The result is an astounding, insightful journey into the Islamic Republic of Iran -- in all its beauty, ferocity, and contradiction. |
Contents
BOUNDARIES | 15 |
CONVERSATIONS IN NORTH TEHRAN | 51 |
HOUSE CALLS | 89 |
ONE WHO YEARNS FOR DEATH NEVER DIES | 122 |
THE COMPANY OF WOMEN | 147 |
A SECRET SHARED | 182 |
STRANGE CHILDREN IN A STRANGE LAND | 214 |
TO FIND GOOD ANSWERS TO GREAT QUESTIONS | 260 |
IN THE SHADOW OF KINGS | 301 |
DESERT CITIES | 341 |
REENTRY | 372 |
BIBLIOGRAPHY | 391 |
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Neither East Nor West: One Woman's Journey Through the Islamic Republic of Iran Christiane Bird No preview available - 2001 |
Common terms and phrases
Ahmad Alamut Alborz Allah already American arrived asked Ayatollah Khomeini Azar Babak Bahman Bakhtiari bazaar Behesht-e Zahra blue carpets chadors Christian clerics courtyard crowded culture dark dressed English entered Esfahan father feel felt Ferdowsi friends Haideh hejab Imam Khomeini Imam Reza Iran Iran-Iraq Iran-Iraq War Iran's Iranian Islamic government Islamic Republic Islamic Revolution Jamaran Kerman Khani Khatami Khorsandi knew later lived Lona looked manteau Maryam Mashhad Mohammad mosque mullahs Muslim never Noroozi once passed Persian political prayer Qor'an religion religious Reza rusari Sanandaj seemed Sepideh Shah Shahnameh Shi'ite Shiraz shrine someone stared stopped streets Tabriz talk taxi things thought told took tourist traveling Turkoman University University of Tehran village visa walls wanted wearing West Western who'd woman women wondered Yazd York young Zoroastrian