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Ada Ciganlija beans beautiful beer Belgrade Belgrade's bottle cafe called cars celebrated century cheese cigarette coffee cooked Cubura cuisine Danube Dereta dish drink drunk East elegant everything famous fear of flying fish flea market foreign friends glass grape gray green grilled guests hand host Jat Airways Jovan kafana kajmak Kalemegdan kiss Knez Mihailova live look meat mezze Momo Kapor morning never night nostalgia once painters Paris patron saint's day peasant peppers pljeskavica plum brandy rakija restaurants river road roast Russian saint sajkaca Sava Sava River Serbian cuisine Serbs served Skadarlija Sljivovica smoked someone subway Sumadija tea sweet taste there's things tion town traffic Turkish village walk watch West Western whisky wine women Writer's Club young Belgrade Yule log