Hair Relaxers: Science, Design, and ApplicationHair Relaxers Science, Design, and Application By: Patrick Obukowho The ethnic hair market is one that is growing exponentially almost strictly on the demand of consumers, as opposed to the usual run of what business’s determine to be “necessary” new product launches. For that reason alone, hair relaxers, a large segment of the ethnic hair market, are big business in and of themselves. This segment is demanding better, more usable products, ones that have fewer harsh side-effects and better long-term results, including improved conditioning properties, hair strength retention, and ease of use. Drawing on his more than two decades of hands-on experience in hair relaxer technology and formulative development, Patrick Obukowho has crafted a well-defined, comprehensive, and quite readable guide to understanding and applying the chemistry of hair relaxers to practical and dynamic formulating. Hair Relaxers: Science, Design, and Application investigates the history of relaxer technology and its present development and application in the following topics: • Hair, Ethnic Hair, and Hair Relaxer Chemistry • History and Evolution of Hair Relaxers • Emulsion Design and Perfecting Emulsions • Ingredients and Their Role in Relaxer Formulations • Post-treatment Products and Alternative Straightening Methods • And more! |
Contents
| 6 | |
Ethnic Hair Chemistry | 13 |
Chapter 3 | 25 |
Chapter 4 | 43 |
Hair Relaxers Defined and Refined | 55 |
Relaxer Emulsion Design | 67 |
Chapter 7 | 75 |
Chapter 8 | 83 |
Controlling Hair Damage with Posttreatment Products | 91 |
Epilogue | 107 |
Common terms and phrases
active ingredients African hair African-American alkali amino acids ammonium atom Avlon base beauty breakage calcium hydroxide Caucasian hair cells Ceramides chemical chemistry comb composition conditioners conditioning agent cortex Cosmet Sci curl curly hair cuticle cysteine disulfide bonds effects emulsifiers emulsion design emulsion formation ethnic hair ethoxylated fatty acids fatty alcohols formulation guanidine guanidine carbonate guanidine hydroxide hair fiber hair follicle hair relaxer hair shaft hair straightening hair’s heat high pH human hair hydrogen bonds hydrophilic hydroxide ions hydroxide relaxers Johnson Products keratin L'Oreal lanolin lanthionine lipid lipophilic lithium hydroxide lye relaxer mineral oil moisture molecule neutralizing shampoo no-lye relaxers nonionic o/w emulsions Obukowho oil phase oxide peptide petrolatum polymer properties propoxylated protein reaction reactive relaxer actives relaxer cream relaxer emulsions relaxer system relaxing process result salon salt bonds scalp irritation sodium hydroxide solution stable straight straighten the hair structure surfactants swelling telogen texture water phase YK Kamath