above it a hole 1/4 inch deep to allow the screw C to get a good bearing. F is made the same as D, except that it has a shoulder back of it to keep it from leaning too far back, and a set screw G, at the side, to hold it stationary. I use this clamp almost every day, and I never saw or heard of one just like it.—By V. D. B.

A Tool for Holding Bolts.

I send a sketch, Fig. 199, of a tool for holding loose bolts while screwing nuts off. To make it, take a piece of 5/8-inch round iron of suitable length, draw down oval and tapering about 5 inches, and about 7 inches from the pointed end drive in a piece of steel,

Fig. 199-A Tool for Holding Loose Bolts.

wedge-shaped, weld securely and sharpen like a chisel; one inch is long enough for this. Then five inches from the end turn it down at right angles, edgewise, and then curl to the left as shown in the illustration. This is better than all the patented tools for this purpose.-By EDWIN CLIFTON.

A Hint About Callipers.

Let me give some of your young readers a hint how to chamfer off the ends of their callipers from the outside and slightly round them across as in Fig. 200, and not make them rounding as in Fig. 201,

B

Fig. 200-Right way to Shape Fig. 201-Wrong way to Shape

Calliper Ends.

Calliper Ends.

The outer points will always touch at the same point no matter what the diameter of the work. If rounding they will touch, for small work, at A, A, and for large work at B, B.-By SHAFTING.

Vise Attachment.

I inclose a paper model of a device that I am using for holding beveled edge iron for filing. It is also useful for chamfering flat iron. In use it is to be screwed in a large vise. The spring shown in the cut, Fig. 202, throws the jaws apart when the vise is released. I think many of your readers will find this idea useful, and as it is one that every blacksmith can

put into practical operation, I commend it to the atention of my fellow craftsmen.-By E. M. B.

NOTE. The accompanying engraving has been made from the paper model inclosed in our corres

Fig. 202-Vise Attachment.

pondent's letter, and, we believe, correctly represents his idea. As he did not show how the spring was attached, or in what form it was to be made, we have nothing to govern us in this particular.-ED.

Bolt Set

We have been using a tool in this community for a long time, which can be applied to wheels very

quickly.

Fig. 203-Bolt Set.

Any blacksmith who can make a pair of tongs can produce it. It is made of good steel, A in

the engraving being chisel-pointed and that it can be set into the head of bolt necessary, by a slight rap with the ham H. S.

A Home-Made Lathe.

The accompanying drawings represe lathe that I have been using for some t very convenient, not only in turning, drilling small holes. Fig. 204 is a side head stock, and Figs. 205 and 206 sho and back ends of Fig. 204. In beginn

Fig. 204-Side View of the Head Stock.

the lathe, I take a piece of flat iron 12 i 3 inches wide and 4 inch thick, and c at each end, tapering down to 134 inches at a, Fig. 206. I then turn 3 inches of

ends up at right angles, as at a, Fig. 204

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two 3/8-inch holes at 6 to bolt the head stock. The head stock is braced at c to prevent the springing of

Fig. 205-Front End of the Head Stock.

the back end of the frame, as all the end pressure comes on that end. I next drill a 34-inch hole. through the back end and 21⁄2 inches from the bot

Fig. 206-Back End of the Headstock.

tom, a, as shown in Fig. 206 at 6, and fit to ba piece of round iron 11⁄2 inches long, with one end coun