312 THE STORY OF SAN DOMINGO. [1866. ruined arches, dilapidated chambers, broken walls, steps and terraces, enough were remaining, to show how massive and magnificent the edifices were. As the travelers entered their boat to return to the steamer, the ruins of the prison where Columbus was confined were pointed out, standing on the bluff on the opposite side of the river. As the De Soto steamed away from the harbor, and past the adjacent forests of tropical luxuriance, with trees of immense size, and underbrush thick, wild, and varied, the conversation on the quarterdeck turned on the eventful history of the island - an instructive and a sad one. This island was deemed the most valuable of the discoveries of Columbus, on account of its varied climate, its wealth of productions, vegetable and mineral, and its spacious harbors. It was here that the Spanish made their first settlement, and opened their first port for trade. The city of San Domingo was founded as the capital of the newly-acquired dominions of the Crown, and was chosen as the site for a Cathedral, with a Bishop, who still retains the old title of "Primate of the Indies." The islanders, whom the Spanish found there, were a docile and unwarlike race. Under their hard taskmasters, they soon succumbed and perished. so slaves were brought from Africa. Laborers were needed, and These, of a sturdier stock, inIn creased and multiplied far beyond the number of their masters. the course of two centuries the western part of the island had passed into the hands of the French. When the Revolution of 1793 swept over France like a tornado, uprooting old traditions and institutions, it abolished slavery in all French colonies and islands. When the Revolution had passed and the Empire was founded, an attempt was made to restore the African race in Hayti to a modified form of slavery, in order that the colony might be more profitable. The negroes resisted, revolted, and finally through war, achieved independence, and claimed the whole island. In 1824, the eastern or Spanish end of the island having an infusion of more white blood, separated from the French or western portion, where African blood predominated. Wars over boundary lines ensued. So, at last, an island whose natural advantages and products are not surpassed in the world, was left to imperfect and neglected cultivation, its fields not half improved, and its cities belonging to the past rather than to the present. To fully comprehend this story and trace its results, one must visit also the Haytian Republic; and thither the American Secretary now took his way. On the morning of the 16th the De Soto was steaming up the long Bay of Gonaives, between high mountains on either hand, gradually narrowing, and closing in, till it ends at the city of Port au Prince. 1866.] AT PORT-AU-PRINCE. 313 This was a day's journey; and so it was after sunset when the steamer cast anchor in the harbor of the Haytian capital. Scattered lights, gleaming on the shore, marked its site. A friendly hail in the darkness announced a boat, with Mr. Peck, the American Commissioner and Consul-General, and Mr. Conard, the Commercial Agent, who had come off to greet the Secretary. Morning showed a picturesque scene - lofty bluffs forming an amphitheater, and at their foot the white houses of a city, rising from the water on a gentle eminence, crowned with fortifications and a national palace - wharves filled with shipping-ocean steamers at anchor two of them being Haytian men-of-war. One of these was the Galatea, which had just been purchased from the United States, and was manned by a crew of "contrabands" and colored men from New York. After the usual exchange of salutes, came the landing. Through piles of logwood and heaps of coffee-sacks, the travelers found their way to the Consulate to breakfast, followed by a drive through the town. Less ancient looking than San Domingo, its edifices, while not so massive, were in better preservation. The streets were rough and badly paved, the houses of the usual West Indian forms of architecture, long, low, and generally spacious, with airy galleries and verandas, abundance of windows, carefully protected from the sun by Venetian blinds. White faces were the exception; nearly everybody being of African complexion and feature. To American eyes it at first seemed odd enough to find not only the laborers, but officers in uniform, welldressed gentlemen and ladies, men of business, and people in authority, all black, all busily employed, and all talking French with a briskness, and a polite and easy air, that, but for the pervading sable hue, would lead the traveler to imagine himself on the quay of a city in France. The paved and spacious market-place presented a busy scene, filled with country people, surrounded by the heaps of tropical productions they had brought; and the rows of patient little donkeys that had brought them. But the ship's steward told marvelous tales of the prices he had paid $16 for a fowl, and $100 for a day's dinner! This, however, was in Haytian currency, which was rather depreciated; he having exchanged, at the Consulate, six gold dollars, for a hundred of the paper ones. While Seward was at breakfast, two aides-de-camp of President Geffrard were announced. They were handsome young men of tawny complexion, attired in a brilliant uniform of blue and crimson. They 314 AT THE NATIONAL PALACE. [1866. were evidently well-bred gentlemen, of French education, but speaking English fluently. They came to invite the party to the President's Palace; and to proffer his carriage to carry them there. The carriage was a barouche attended by servants in green and gold livery, and followed by a guard of dragoons. At the gate of the Palace the troops were drawn up in line to give a military salute. There were several regiments, all neat and soldierlike, many in gay uniforms, resembling those of French Chasseurs, Tirailleurs and Hussars. The band played airs of welcome; and amid the strains of the "Star Spangled Banner," Seward was ushered into the state drawing-room. Here was the President, an erect, fine-looking man, of very dark complexion, with gray hair, courteous address, and pleasing expression. He wore a uniform resembling that of a French field marshal. He received the American Secretary of State with warm and gracefully-expressed compliments; and conversed in French, very fully and fluently, upon the condition of affairs in Hayti and the United States. The President was attended by several of his Ministers and Secretaries. Mr. Elie, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, a statesman of enlarged views, and General Roumain, who had been Chargé d'Affaires at Washington, were both in civilian's dress, and both so light in color that they might easily be deemed white men. The Ministers of War and Navy, on the other hand, were entirely African in hue, and wore official uniforms. In manner and conversation they were polished, educated, and experienced public men. Madame Geffrard and her two daughters now entered the room, and received their guests. They were ladies of refinement and education, all dressed in accordance with Parisian taste; and all spoke French only. The drawing-rooms were richly and tastefully furnished, some of the decorations being copied from those of the imperial palaces in France. Among the pictures, was one of Mr. Lincoln; among the busts, was one of Washington, and another of John Brown. After leaving the Palace, the Cathedral was visited. It was a large, substantial structure, of stone and wood, handsomely decorated and furnished. The pictures were numerous; some of them fine, a few of them old, and nearly all of them by French artists. Then the two Houses of Congress - that of the Senate and that of the Representatives. Neither was in session at the time. The rooms were not large, as the bodies themselves were not; but resembling, in most respects, the legislative chambers of one of the American States. Here were portraits of several of the Presidents of Hayti, one or two historical paintings, another likeness of John Brown, and one of |
