The Smiling Land: All Around the Circle in My Newfoundland and LabradorFrom one of Canada's most beloved and celebrated Newfoundlanders comes a rollicking insider's guide to the province, told as only Alan Doyle can tell it. Few Canadian musicians are as synonymous with their home province as Alan Doyle is to his—and even fewer once worked as tour guides. In The Smiling Land, Alan reprises his tour-guiding role to welcome the rest of Canada to his home and take readers on an adventure: a freewheeling road trip through Newfoundland, its history, and its culture. From Fogo Island to the Southwest Coast, Labrador to Ferryland, and everywhere in between, Alan's Newfoundland awaits you. There are visits to windswept coastlines and towering crags, ancient Viking and Basque fishing settlements, and more lighthouses than you can shake a foghorn at. More recent settlements are also part of the itinerary, from burgeoning arts venues and communities to more humble but no less world-class locales, such as Foley's Shed, a jaunty live-music pub that—as its name suggests—happens to be in some guy named Foley's shed. Alan provides savvy insider tips for visitors to St. John's, like how to score fish and chips and a free ride by hopping into the delivery person's car as they drive your food to your desired destination. Or, for the aspiring rum smuggler visiting the Burin Peninsula, how to sneak bottles from the French territory of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon to the shores of Newfoundland. There are dolphin sightings, cliffside hikes among flocks of ocean-plunging puffins, and a pilgrimage to the home of the (late) great auk. And what tour of Newfoundland could be complete without a short history of what can best be described as "icebergs that look like things," an illustrious history that includes an exact replica of the Virgin Mary that once washed into St. John's harbour, and the more recent—and far less holy—"Dickie Berg," which made international headlines for looking like . . . well, not the Virgin Mary. Wildly entertaining, informative, and brimming with Alan's classic brand of storytelling and romping good fun, The Smiling Land is a celebration of Newfoundland—both its storied past and its ever-vibrant present. |
Contents
A Map of the Smiling Land 1 Introduction | 1 |
Farewell to Fogo | 5 |
A Bayman in Town | 32 |
Hitching to Gros Morne | 42 |
The Viking Highway | 57 |
Labrador Time | 75 |
Jeans Laundry and Lunch | 93 |
The Airport Not the Outport | 103 |
Fish and Chips and Cardboard | 143 |
Harbour Grace Excursion | 155 |
Down in Bonavista | 171 |
The Lost Guitar | 198 |
SaintPierre Swears | 208 |
Welcome to Newfoundland and Labrador | 226 |
My Backyard | 247 |
Acknowledgements | 253 |
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The Smiling Land: All Around the Circle in My Newfoundland and Labrador Alan Doyle Limited preview - 2025 |
Common terms and phrases
airport Alan Doyle Atlantic beautiful boat Bonavista building built Burin Peninsula called Canada church Clarenville Corner Brook Cove Deer Lake downtown dozen drive favourite feel fella ferry Ferryland fish and chips Fogo Island folks Freddie Gander gigs Gros Morne Harbour Grace head Henry highway hikes hundred kilometres Joanne John’s land lighthouse live look Marystown massive minivan museum never Newfoundland and Labrador night North America ocean park Peninsula Petty Harbour played Port au Choix Port aux Basques province quickly Quidi Vidi Regatta Roulette ride road rocks roll Ron Hynes rural Newfoundland Saint-Pierre Saint-Pierre and Miquelon shore shouted side Signal Hill songs spot started Stephenville stop sure tell there’s thing thousand tour tower town Townie trail trip turn walk wharf wonder wooden