Barolo and Barbaresco: The King and Queen of Italian Wine

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Univ of California Press, Oct 17, 2014 - Cooking - 346 pages
Following on the success of her books on Brunello di Montalcino, renowned author and wine critic Kerin O’Keefe takes readers on a historic and in-depth journey to discover Barolo and Barbaresco, two of Italy’s most fascinating and storied wines. In this groundbreaking new book, O’Keefe gives a comprehensive overview of the stunning side-by-side growing areas of these two world-class wines that are separated only by the city of Alba and profiles a number of the fiercely individualistic winemakers who create structured yet elegant and complex wines of remarkable depth from Italy’s most noble grape, Nebbiolo.

A masterful narrator of the aristocratic origins of winemaking in this region, O’Keefe gives readers a clear picture of why Barolo is called both the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings. Profiles of key Barolo and Barbaresco villages include fascinating stories of the families, wine producers, and idiosyncratic personalities that have shaped the area and its wines and helped ignite the Quality Wine Revolution that eventually swept through all of Italy.

The book also considers practical factors impacting winemaking in this region, including climate change, destructive use of harsh chemicals in the vineyards versus the gentler treatments used for centuries, the various schools of thought regarding vinification and aging, and expansion and zoning of vineyard areas. Readers will also appreciate a helpful vintage guide to Barolo and Barbaresco and a glossary of useful Italian wine terms.
 

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Contents

Barolo and Barbaresco
1
Serralunga dAlba 122
11
Noble Nebbiolo
17
figures
18
Castello di Barolo
34
The Barolo Wars and Their Effect on Both Denominations
42
Example ofvineyard exposure in Barbaresco
57
Historic botti at Marchesi di Barolo winery
73
Roberto Conterno of Giacomo Conterno
176
Giacomo Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno
180
Elio Grasso
183
Claudio Fenocchio of Giacomo Fenocchio
188
Ferdinando Principiano
193
Fabio Alessandria of Burlotto
201
12
213
Angelo Gaja
226

Maria Teresa Mascarello
79
Enzo Brezza in the Sarmassa vineyard
86
View of Castiglione Falletto
99
Giuseppe Laura and Alfio Cavallotto
102
Alex Sanchez of Brovia
112
Mauro Mascarello in Monprivato
117
Sergio Germano in the Cerretta vineyard
132
Franco Massolino
138
La Morra and Cherasco
150
Vineyards after a snowfall in La Morra
151
Elio Altare
159
Aldo Vacca of Produttori del Barbaresco
233
Giovanna Rizzolio and Italo Sobrino of Cascina delle Rose
236
Renato Vacca of Cantina del Pino
245
Pietro Berutti of La Spinona
247
Paolo and Valter Anfossi of De Forville
249
Bruno Giacosa
264
Enrico Dellapiana of Rizzi
285
Giuseppe and Pier Paolo Grasso of Pier
294
Pio Boffa of Pio Cesare
303
Appendix A Vintage Guide to Barolo and Barbaresco
313
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About the author (2014)

Kerin O’Keefe is the author of Brunello di Montalcino (UC Press, 2012) and of Franco Biondi Santi: The Gentleman of Brunello (Veronelli Editore, 2005). She is the Italian Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, and her numerous articles on Italian wine have been published in top industry publications, including The World of Fine Wine and Decanter.

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