Imperial Wine: How the British Empire Made Wine’s New World

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Univ of California Press, Apr 5, 2022 - BUSINESS & ECONOMICS - 342 pages
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A fascinating deep dive into the colonial roots of the global wine industry. Imperial Wine is a bold, rigorous history of Britain’s surprising role in creating the wine industries of Australia, South Africa, and New Zealand. Here, historian Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre bridges the genres of global commodity history and imperial history, presenting provocative new research in an accessible narrative. This is the first book to argue that today’s global wine industry exists as a result of settler colonialism and that imperialism was central, not incidental, to viticulture in the British colonies.
 
Wineries were established almost immediately after the colonization of South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand as part of a civilizing mission: tidy vines, heavy with fruit, were symbolic of Britain’s subordination of foreign lands. Economically and culturally, nineteenth-century settler winemakers saw the British market as paramount. However, British drinkers were apathetic towards what they pejoratively called "colonial wine." The tables only began to turn after the First World War, when colonial wines were marketed as cheap and patriotic and started to find their niche among middle- and working-class British drinkers. This trend, combined with social and cultural shifts after the Second World War, laid the foundation for the New World revolution in the 1980s, making Britain into a confirmed country of wine-drinkers and a massive market for New World wines. These New World producers may have only received critical acclaim in the late twentieth century, but Imperial Wine shows that they had spent centuries wooing, and indeed manufacturing, a British market for inexpensive colonial wines. This book is sure to satisfy any curious reader who savors the complex stories behind this commodity chain.
 

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Contents

part one origins c 16501830
9
Europe
18
The First Wine at the Cape
29
South Africa
30
Creating Australian Vineyards
40
Australia and New Zealand
41
New Zealands First Grapes
48
part two growth c 18301910
61
Detail map of Australia and the Cape
148
Plonk Colonial Wine and the First World War
157
The Dominions and the Interwar Period
168
Quantity of total wine exported from South Africa 190661
173
Percentage of South African wine exported to the U K 190661
174
Australian other empire and foreign European wine imports to the U K 190931
178
The British Market for Empire Wines
180
The Joyous Grape
181

Colonial Wines of the Nineteenth Century
72
Grape pickers at Dalwood Vineyard 1886 2
85
Have You Any Colonial Wine? Australian Producers and British
88
Working the Colonial Vineyard
104
Sulphur Sulphur Sulphur Phylloxera and Other Pests
118
British Consumers in the Victorian Era
127
Malta and Canada
135
Detail map of wineproducing countries
146
Waerenga wines 1934
190
Colonial Wines in the Postwar Society
207
Burgoynes Harvest Burgundy
213
Colonial Wines Battle Back
219
British per capita consumption 19612013
232
Notes about Measurements
245
Copyright

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About the author (2022)

Jennifer Regan-Lefebvre is Associate Professor of History at Trinity College, Connecticut, and author of Cosmopolitan Nationalism in the Victorian Empire.  In 2019 she was named one of the “Future 50” of wine by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust and the International Wine and Spirit Competition. 
 

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