The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into TerroirHow and why do we think about food, taste it, and cook it? While much has been written about the concept of terroir as it relates to wine, in this vibrant, personal book, Amy Trubek, a pioneering voice in the new culinary revolution, expands the concept of terroir beyond wine and into cuisine and culture more broadly. Bringing together lively stories of people farming, cooking, and eating, she focuses on a series of examples ranging from shagbark hickory nuts in Wisconsin and maple syrup in Vermont to wines from northern California. She explains how the complex concepts of terroir and goût de terroir are instrumental to France's food and wine culture and then explores the multifaceted connections between taste and place in both cuisine and agriculture in the United States. How can we reclaim the taste of place, and what can it mean for us in a country where, on average, any food has traveled at least fifteen hundred miles from farm to table? Written for anyone interested in food, this book shows how the taste of place matters now, and how it can mediate between our local desires and our global reality to define and challenge American food practices. |
Contents
1 | |
1 Place Matters | 18 |
2 Wine Is Dead Long Live Wine | 54 |
3 California Dreaming | 93 |
A Chef s Story | 139 |
5 Connecting Farmers and Chefs in Vermont | 169 |
Taste of Place or Brand? | 208 |
Epilogue | 244 |
Appendix | 251 |
Notes | 263 |
281 | |
291 | |
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Common terms and phrases
agrarian agricultural Alice Waters American Aniane AOC system AOVDQS apple artisanal biodynamic Bonny Doon Bonny Doon Vineyard Bordeaux Bourgogne brand cabécou California century Champagne Chez Panisse consumers cooking Côtes create cuisine du terroir cultural Curnonsky definition of terroir develop dishes dominant England Culinary Institute farmers and chefs Farmers Diner Ferry Building flavor Fondiller food and drink food and wine food system France France’s gastronomic global goût du terroir Grahm grapes growers growing Guibert hickory nuts Ibid importance industrial ingredients Interview involved l’Arboussas L’Etoile land landscape maple syrup menu Murphy Odessa Piper olive oil organic farming people’s Piper potatoes practices production promote regional cuisine restaurant Rocamadour rural says sell Slow Food soil state’s story sugar makers taste of place tastemakers tion tradition unique United Valley values varietal Vermont Fresh Network Vermont maple vines vineyard viticulture wanted winemaking winery Wisconsin