Fashion and Orientalism: Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century

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A&C Black, Feb 28, 2013 - Design - 255 pages

Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion.

Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West for the last 500 years.

Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the "de-Orientalization" of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history.

 

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Contents

1 Early Orientalism and the Barbaresque
15
2 16901815 Chinoiserie Indiennerie Turquerie and Egyptomania
41
3 18151871 Turkophilia Afromania and the Indes
85
4 18681944 The Japoniste Revolution the Deorientalizing of the Orient and the Birth of Couture
114
5 19442011 Postwar Revivalism and Transorientalism
154
Conclusion The Revenge of China
197
Notes
201
Bibliography
227
Index
241
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About the author (2013)

Adam Geczy is an artist and writer, and Senior Lecturer at Sydney College of the Arts, a faculty of the University of Sydney. He is co-author with Michael Carter of Reframing Art, and his Art: Histories, Theories and Exceptions (Berg 2008) won the Choice Award for Best Art Book of 2009. He has recently completed editing a major collection of essays with Vicki Karaminas on Fashion and Art (Berg, 2012).

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